🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.